December 14: The Walled City: Getting an Overview

Cartagena was founded by Spanish conquistador Pedro de Heredia on June 1, 1533, and named after Cartagena, Spain, his hometown. During the Spanish Colonial period Cartagena served a key role in administration and expansion of the Spanish empire. It was a center of political, shipping, and economic activity due to the presence of royalty and wealthy viceroys.

Because of its value as a port and financial hub, the city became attractive to foreign rulers and pirates. In 1586, Sir Francis Drake (he really got around, didn’t he?) arrived in Cartagena with a powerful fleet and quickly took the city. He was soon paid a hefty ransom by Spain, but devastated much of the city before he departed.

After the Drake disaster, Spain poured millions into the city for its protection, much of which went into the planning and construction of protective walls and forts. The resulting fortification includes 11 kilometers of high thick stone walls, plus 21 bastions, 7 forts, 13 batteries, and 3 breakwaters. It took almost two centuries to complete the construction, but forever after protected the city from marauders and pirates.

In 1984 Cartagena's colonial walled city and fortress were designated aUNESCO World Heritage Site. 

El Torre de Reloj. The Clock Tower is the official entrance to the Walled City from the Plaza de Paz. Inside the gate is the Plaza of Carriages and the statue of the city's founder.

Conquistador Pedro de Heredia, founder of Cartagena.

The Old Walled City of Cartagena is filled with quaint and picturesque streets with buildings and homes dating to the Colonial Period. You can clearly see the Spanish influence on architecture, with arches, stone work, and balconies. This part of Cartagena has a real "New Orleans feel", understandably because both cities were Spanish possessions during the time of the Empire.

First stop in the Walled City is Plaza de Bolivar. This is a lovely treed park with fountains on each corner and a statue of Simon de Bolivar, the Liberator of South America.

Statue of the Liberator. Bolivar led the quest for independence from Spain, which was accomplished in 1821. That same year, Bolivar created "Gran Colombia" which included what is now Colombia, Panama, Venezuela, Ecuador, and northern Peru. Cartagenos consider Pedro de Heredia the founder of their city, but Simon de Bolivar the father of their country.

Fronting the Plaza de Bolivar is the Palacio de la Inquisicion. Under Spanish rule, Phillip III established an office of the Holy Order of the Inquisition in Cartagena because of the city's economic importance to the Empire. Needless to say, things that went on here were anything buy "holy!" I will have more to say in days to come as we return to the Walled City for more specific visits to the Palace of the Inquisition and other points of interest.

Tim outside the Palace of the Inquisition. He is being "tortured" by my incessant photo taking!

The Walled City is obviously a tourist destination. As such, it boasts an interesting collection of local characters looking for tourist loot. Above what looks like a statue is in fact two mimes posing for photos. What you can't see in the photo is two tip buckets on the curb in front of them. I put a dollar in one after taking my photo, but was promptly and unhesitatingly instructed to tip the other bucket as well. Then they took their bow!

 Street musicians are everywhere and provide a nice musical ambience to the sweating tourists.

 "Senoritas morenas" are common with their colorful traditional costumes. They walk around with fruit bowls on their head selling photo ops as well as slices of fresh fruit from their bowls. They loved Tim!

 Street art in charcoal on the wall of a building. Noah's Ark in the upper right corner.

Teatro Heredia above. Built in 1911 and fashioned after the Teatro Tacon in Havana, it is the performance theater for the city named after its founder Pedro de Heredia.

La Merced adjacent to the Teatro Heredia.

Here is another local "character" as we visit the actual wall of the Walled City. It stretches 11 km around the town, and here you can see how high and thick it is.


There are numerous sculptures scattered around the Walled City.

Whimsical statue outside the Church of San Pedro Claver.

Here Tim is receiving a blessing. Lord knows, he needs it!

We are very close to the equator, and I'm hot and sweaty, relaxing in the arms of a couple of sympathetic locals.

 More beautiful colonial buildings in the old city.

 The Church of San Pedro Claver. Also scheduled for a return visit in days to come.

Plaza de Aduanas. Customs houses.

And of course, the Walled City is decorated for Christmas!

Photo by Martin St. Amada. 

A view of Boca Grande across the Bay of Cartagena from the Old Walled City. The "Old New World" looking at the new.